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On my last day in Svalbard I went on a glacier hike. Right next to Longyearbyen (the main settlement on Svalbard) is a mountain
called Sarkofagen, with the glaciers Larsbreen to the left and Longyearbreen to the right. The route
for the walk was going up on Larsbreen, then walking along the crest of Sarkofagen to the top
(Sarkofagen is pretty steep from the side facing Longyearbyen, but quite flat on the other
side) and then down to Longyearbreen and back to Longyearbyen. There were six of us doing the
hike, one local guide and five tourists. The toughest part was actually getting to the glacier,
since we had to walk halfway up the mountain over lots of rocks and rubble, which was exhausting
and I was out of breath when we reached the glacier itself. [I had hoped that the trip would
be breathtaking, but I didn't mean it literally. Fortunatly, when we actually were on the glacier
and later on top of Sarkofagen, the view was breathtaking in the much more comfortable sense.]
On the glacier itself we strapped spiked plates to our shoes, grabbed our ice picks and
were roped together.
Having a safety rope seemed a bit over-cautious at first, since the glacer wasn't particulary steep
or slippery and didn't have any large cracks in the ice. [And fortunatly we didn't really needed
to use it.] But after a while it became obvious that looks could be deceptive. Since it was quite
warm, the ice on the surface was melting and running down the glacier in lots of little streams.
For some reason the streams were all going down in serpentines [I would have assumed that the
water would carve straight lines into the ice] and in the bends the water was often fast enough
to cling to the side of the ice, sort of like a bob sleigh going around a corner.
As a result of this, the water dug into the ice almost sideways, so that there were places
which looked quite solid from above, but were just a thin sheet of ice over a steep drop. (See picture.)
Before it starts to sound overly dramatic: I'm not talking about hundred feet deep drops here,
just a couple of yards, but falling down those ravines would not have been fun.
The walk over the glacier was impressive, especially since it was a warm (ok,
about 12 degree celsius, but that is warm by Svalbardian standards) day, the
sky was blue and the sun was reflected by ice, giving everything a slightly unreal and
'postcardy' look. After an hour or so, we were back on solid ground and went up Sarkofagen
mountain on the 'stairway to heaven'. [The tour guide had nicknamed it thus, since the
crest of the mountain is shaped like a triangle pointing towards the top of the mountain
and is slanted upwards, so it looked a bit like the perspective view of a wide road going
on into infinity towards the sky. {Ok, the description is a bit vague and it's one of the
rare cases were a picture really tells more than a thousand words, but unfortunatly I didn't
take a picture of it. Anyway, the name seemed appropriate when we stood there.}]
When we reached the top, we had a coffee break and nice (did I mention breathtaking?) view
of Longyearbyen and the glaciers. On our way down towards Longyearbreen we spotted a
grouse, which had just taken a sandbath. When we passed a waterfall and saw our shadows
on the side of the mountain, I realized what the row of shadowy figures, walking single
file and carrying (ice-)picks reminded me of: the seven dwarves from Snow White (ok, we
were just a group of six, but the similarities were obvious), so we went down the glacier
singing and whistling "Heigh-Ho" :-)
At the end of the glacier we could do a bit of fossil hunting, since the rubble there is
full of them. (I found four stones with fossilized leaves in them in about two minutes,
so they are very easy to spot.) And from there it was just walking down the rocks and
rubble back to Longyearbyen and the trip was over.
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